Bangkok - serene and sensational

The climate, the architecture, the people, the pace, everything about Bangkok swamps the westernised senses. A frenetically commercial modern capital, Bangkok is also a timeless spiritual centre, a place where chaotic traffic hurtles past hushed temples. List its ingredients like a recipe and you’d think it would never work, but like its distinctive Thai cuisine, each contrasting element emphasises the other, producing an unforgettable experience.

Bangkok is a one of the great world cities, a conurbation of some 12 million souls at the centre of Southeast Asia, a point where influences from across the region converge and intermingle, simmered in the steamy tropical heat to produce a distinct flavour all its own. As the cultural, economic and religious capital of this ancient land, there are many sides to the city for visitors to experience, so there’s something for everyone, whatever your taste. Although a very foreign culture for western visitors, it’s relatively easy to make your way around – English is a compulsory subject in Thai schools and is widely spoken in the main shopping and tourist areas.

Getting about the city is also fairly straightforward; Bangkok is served by not one, but two modern train systems – the elevated ‘Skytrain’ and the underground, though it seems a shame to travel all that way just to use anonymous modern carriages. To experience the sights, sounds and smells of the city up close and personal, try a ride on a three-wheeled ‘tuk-tuk’ open taxi – but remember to agree the fare before you set off, then hang on – and possibly close your eyes! Don’t, however, ride pillion on one of the numerous motorbike taxis – road traffic accidents are common and even Thais regard them as risky.

Thailand (formerly known as Siam) is almost unique in the region for having avoided western colonisation, so Bangkok’s heritage is securely eastern, its architectural heritage remaining undiluted by European influences. While the predominant culture is Thai, there are strong Chinese, Malay and Khmer influences, drawn from the various reaches of the former Siamese Empire, which held sway over much of the Indochina peninsular until the late 19th Century. The city grew rapidly during the late 20th Century, sterile glass and concrete towers rising to shade the older ornate pagodas – shade, but not demolish: much of the old city remains. The flower of Bangkok’s cultural heritage can be found in its Buddhist temples, over 400 of which dot the city. You could easily spend weeks visiting just temples, so unless on a gap year, you might want to prioritise the ‘must see’ highlights. Many of the city’s cultural gems are concentrated in the Old City, centred on Rattanakosin Island, including Wat Pho, Wat Arun and The Grand Palace.

Wat Pho, or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the largest and oldest temple in the country, famous for the immense statue of the founder of the Buddhist faith. At around 45 metres long and 15 high it’s the largest of its kind in the world and as if its size wasn’t enough to make an impression, the statue is also completely covered in gold leaf, making it completely unforgettable. The site is also a centre for traditional medicine and the home of Thai massage.

Across the Chao Phraya river lies Wat Arun, or Temple of the Dawn, so called due to the luminous quality the building takes on in the early morning light. Its most impressive feature is the central intricately decorated prang, or tower - some 70 metres tall, symbolising Mount Meru from Indian mythology.

The Grand Palace, home to Siamese royalty from 18th to 20th centuries, is an impressively manicured sprawl covering many acres. The Palace is joined to the Wat Phra Kaew or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, home to a tiny jade sculpture of the prophet, regarded as the symbol of the Thai state. Visitors to these and other monuments should expect to pay a small entrance fee and stick to a ‘no shorts’ dress code.

In sharp contrast to the spiritual calm of the temples and palaces, Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Road district is a positive eruption of shops, stalls, restaurants and bars. From the gleaming up-market Siam Square and Siam Paragon malls, favourites for expats and wealthy Thais, with their big-brand chain stores and fine restaurants, to the warren of side streets or ‘soi’ offering a less sanitised taste of Thailand.

Determined bargain hunters should head for the Phetchaburi Road district and its bewildering range of clothes shops. Although many are geared up for the export wholesale market you can still buy for just yourself – it’s simply cheaper if you order in bulk.

For cut-price jewellery, head for the Platinum Mall, ideal for both finding something shiny at a knock down price and escaping the heat, thanks to its indoor location and welcome air conditioning. And don’t forget that when shopping the markets haggling is positively expected, so don’t take the asking price seriously – the stall keeper won’t.

If days spent exploring the city’s cultural treasures or locked in haggling battle have worn you out, recharge the batteries with a traditional Thai massage. There are several reputable chains in the city – try Centre Point Massage on Siam Square or the cheerfully named Happy Feet by the Amari Boulevard Hotel off Sukhumvit Road.

When to visit...

Unlike our northern temperate climate, there are three rather than four distinct seasons in Thailand. The rainy (monsoon) season generally runs from July to October. The rain isn’t constant, but when it does come it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen, even in an English summer. The cool season (it doesn’t really deserve to be called a ‘winter’) runs from November until February. While temperatures in northern Thailand can get cool enough for a second layer of clothing, central and southern areas stay pleasantly warm, making it the most popular time for visitors. By March the mercury is rising, usually well into the high 30s with humidity to match – ideal for sun worshipers heading for coastal resorts, but think twice about tackling the Bangkok temple trail on foot as temperatures hit their highest.