Mediterranean Magic: Sardinia, Malta, Sicily & Cyprus

Warmed by a benign sun, fed by a generous sea and matured by millennia of cultural intermingling, the islands of the Mediterranean are a living celebration of the good things in life. We take a brief cruise around four of the finest in the central and eastern Med, to sample just a little of the mystical spell that they cast over visitors, making them return year after year…

 

Sardinia – a land without time  

“Sardinia is left outside of time and history,” as David Herbert Lawrence described it in his travel book The Sea and Sardinia. The things that made that true when Herbert visited in the 1920s make it true for visitors today – you can almost feel the history, anchoring the island as firmly to its origins as its rugged mountains are fixed to the earth. The people, of all ages, seem attached to the land and to its traditions.

 Over the millennia it’s been visited by many cultures, thanks to it’s place on the ancient trading routes of the Mediterranean. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines and Spanish all arrived and made their mark. Perhaps it’s this blending of influences and evening-out of cultural extremes that creates a settled stability that combines with the solidity of the landscape to create this feeling of permanence.

 Sardinia, second only to Sicily as the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, almost touching French Corsica to the north and some 200km west of the Italian mainland, is big enough to offer plenty for the visitor to discover. Being one of the less obvious holiday destinations, combined with its size and isolation from the Italian mainland, means the mountainous interior is relatively unspoilt, a peaceful retreat if you’re looking for a break from the bustle of modern living. The mountainous terrain is ideal for taking in some truly impressive scenery and getting a taste of old fashioned Sardinian life, away from the more populous coast.

 It’s not just the countryside that seems timeless, Sardinian towns echo with living reminders of centuries past. The island’s capital, Cagliari, boasts a rich mix of ancient architectural heritage in its Castello (which means ‘castle’) district. With a hilltop advantage, it offers views over the Gulf of Cagliari, in-between the local white lime stone buildings. The district shows many layers of the islands’ past, such as the Basilica di San Saturnino, built in the 5th century, dedicated to the martyred Saturninus of Cagliari, patron saint of the city, while the remnants of the Roman amphitheatre are still serving their purpose, hosting open air performances during the summer.

 But it’s not all culture and remote mountain views, Sardinia is, after all a Mediterranean island, and much of what it has to offer is provided by the sea, ideal transport for seeing the islands, coves and grottos off the coast. The deserted islands in the Archipelago of Maddalena, the opportunity of visiting Corsica by ferry from Santa Teresa, or the breath-taking Grotto di Bue Marina near Cala Gonone and the tiny isles of Cavoli and Serpentara with rich marine life off Villasimius in the south are all worth venturing off dry land for.

Sicily – no where’s more Italian

 Shaped by the Nebrodi and Madonie mountains, the final extension of the Italian continental Apennines; Sicily is the concluding flourish to the flow of the Italian Peninsular – literally and metaphorically. The essence of Italy is at its most intense in Sicily.

Although the largest and most populated island in the Med, much of Sicily retains a very traditional Italian way of life, placing family, food and care for the land at the heart everything. Citrus gardens above green hills heavy with vines dominate a landscape that could only be Sicilian. Traditional farms, aristocratic country residences and baroque villas doze behind screens of ancient olive groves across the island. Many traditional dwellings have been modernized ready for visitors, offering comfortable accommodation (both physically and financially) from which you can get out and explore the easy-paced lifestyle.

Palermo, the modern capital of the island, shows signs of the numerous dominant civilisations over the centuries, including Roman, Carthaginian, Byzantine, Greek, Arab, Norman, Swabian and Spanish. Due to this past, and the cultural intermingling over millennia, the city shows signs of a blend of influences. Many ancient monuments still exist, lending the city an eclectic appearance. Palermo Old Town is one of the largest in Europe and contains many masterpieces from different periods, including Romanesque, gothic, renaissance and baroque architecture as well as examples of modern art.
 But the Sicilian history isn’t just about static monuments, its living breathing, bustling reality can be seen in ‘Il Capo’ the traditional market on the Palazzo Reale-Monte di Pieta. The market, which traces its origins back to the Arabian times of the 8th century, has been renowned for centuries for the quality of its fresh Mediterranean sea food. The heady whirl of sights, sounds, smells and colours within a long-established setting are vibrant modern expressions of Sicily’s past.

 

Malta - small, but perfectly formed

 Dwarfed by Sicily some 100km to the north, Malta’s position at the centre of the Mediterranean has given it a place in history far greater than its limited size. The island is awash with grandiose architecture chronicling the changes from Neolithic origins, through to periods of Greek and Roman rule. Its vast timeline of cultural change has left its trace on the island, evident in fascinating landscape and the eclectic array of monuments, from medieval temples to baroque cathedrals. The diverse personalities of the island’s foundations have amalgamated to create a colourful contemporary culture making a truly unique experience for all who visit.

 Little more than ten miles long and six across, the island is positively bursting with culture, and at such a compact size, perfect for the holiday maker who feels the need to ‘see it all’ on a trip – without wearing yourself out.  An invigorating start would be taking a trek along one of Malta’s famed walks. Twisting and turning around the natural flow of the island’s landscape, each reveals a new vista. The Marfa Ridge walk, starting and ending at Ghadira Bay, incorporates breathtaking sea and landscape views from high ridges. Alternatively, the Girgenti walk takes you wandering through a fascinating complex of woodland caves dating from the 16th Century, or the Bahrija walk, which starts in the tranquil town of Rabat and takes in coastal cliffs and countryside views of fertile farm valleys.

 Having worked up an appetite during a morning’s stroll, the Maltese never fail to provide anything less than a feast fit for a king. Incorporating the delicious and varied cuisines of its neighbours, as well as exotic tastes from the Orient and Africa. Budding chefs keen to rustle up their own masterpieces barely need to tamper with the ripe, vine grown tomatoes, plump olives (also creating a wonderfully velvety oil), lemons and local cheeses. The custom of enjoying quality food cooked simply is widespread in Malta, with freshly baked local bread often being a centrepiece for a picnic style meal.

 

Cyprus – under one sun

 There’s more for the holidaymakers that unites the island of Cyprus than divides it – beautiful scenery, delicious local food and people as warm as the Mediterranean sun. While the differences that lead to the island’s partition in 1974 are far from forgotten and legal questions over land ownership continue, the north/south border is settled and stable, with both sides displaying increasing gestures of goodwill towards each other and several crossings open to those wishing to see what both have to offer.

 The southern Republic of Cyprus covers most of the island and proves the most popular for visitors. The island has a well-deserved reputation for beach resorts, with a range of accommodation to suit most pockets – perfect if your idea of holiday heaven is basking by day and dancing by night. Indeed, the resort of Ayia Napa at the far south-eastern tip of the Republic is a renowned international centre for young dance club fans, with many UK DJs appearing there.

While most head to the coastal regions, the Cypriot countryside is well worth exploring, from fragrant citrus orchards and olive groves, rolling vineyards, wide open plains carpeted with colourful wild flowers, to cool pine forests. Try one of the many wine or culinary tours, discovering age-old villages cascading down hillsides, with shady squares where you can sit at the coffee shop and mix with the locals. A day spent relaxing at one of the salt lakes offers a therapeutic alternative to soaking up rays on the beach, easing away the stresses of modern living that Cyprus, and all the Mediterranean islands, offer such a soothing contrast to.