Guernsey

On arrival it’s immediately clear that life here is a little different, starting with the impression made by Guernsey’s airport: no airport chaos, no queues and a modern and (mercifully) small arrivals’ hall; a relaxing taste of things to come across the island.

Measuring just 24 square miles, Guernsey is 75 miles south of mainland Britain and 27 miles from France, yet feels a million miles from home. A stylish fusion of French and British, it has its own ruling government independent of the Westminster Parliament (albeit under the British Crown) and keeps alive traditional values and ancient customs. The island issues its own bank notes but currency is sterling so visitors can make the most of the holiday budget without losing out on punishing foreign exchange.

Guernsey’s rural interior is a delight; each parish has its own character and friendly islanders can always point you in the right direction, should you fancy a homemade cream tea or some Guernsey cider. Wander, cycle or drive (slowly - the maximum speed is 35mph decreasing to 15mph on the network of ‘ruettes tranquilles’) down enchanting green lanes, past dozing cats and hedge-veg ‘honesty’ boxes. Guernsey is very proud of her floral tradition and throughout the year there are three Floral Festival weeks (spring, summer and autumn) with guided walks, open gardens, displays and much more.

Visit The Little Chapel in St Andrews (possibly the world’s smallest church accommodating a congregation of two); stroll around the German Occupation Museum, which tells the story of the island’s occupation during World War II, with its authentic ‘occupation street’. Plan a stop at Sausmarez Manor, with its beautiful sub-tropical gardens (many rare plants) and a world-class sculpture park featuring contemporary and classical work.

St Peter Port is one of the prettiest capitals in Europe, with traditional brick and white-washed houses clinging to the hill above the harbour. Standing out above the town is Castle Cornet, an ancient fortress that currently hosts an exciting display of sculptures by Anthony Gormley (best known for his ‘Angel of the North’), with giant iron figures strategically placed around the castle ramparts.

There are dozens of restaurants and bistros to suit all budgets and tastes in St Peter Port. Wherever you are on the island, you’re never far from a restaurant, whether overlooking St Peter Port at the Auberge or revelling in the flavours on fresh lobster and crab at a Fermain Bay beach cafe. While in the capital, don’t miss a visit to the Guernsey Museum for stories of the island’s interesting history. Hauteville House (now a museum) was once the home of Victor Hugo, exiled here from France from 1856-1870, where he wrote much of Les Misérables and Toilers of the Sea.

The clever use of restoration combining contemporary life with traditional – a hallmark of Guernsey – can be seen in some of the island’s fabulous converted farm and manor house hotels, all offering an informal and intimate boutique style accommodation. There are some great family run hotels and guesthouses close to beaches and the beautiful coastline, popular with families and couples who enjoy the combination of outdoors and good living.

Shopping is a treat here too - think bargains on electrical goods and jewellery due to lower excise duty rates than in the UK and with high-streets free from brash international coffee shop chains. The island has a dramatically contrasting coastline, as if chunks have been transplanted from different countries. From the sweeping grandeur of the south with its secluded coves and soaring cliffs that once so inspired Auguste Renoir, who fell in love with Moulin Huet bay and captured its shimmering light (the view remains the same today), to the pink rocky headlands and flat, wide expanses of sand on the west coast, popular with windsurfers and swimmers. There are 27 bays and beaches in all.

Here you can see mysterious Lihou Island, a rocky islet separated from Guernsey at high tide by a cobbled causeway and on which stands the ruin of a priory built in the 12th century by Benedictine monks. Around to the north and its harbours and moorings, where watch towers and forts tell of the islanders’ efforts to repel French attacks, before heading back down towards St Peter Port on the east coast. Superbly marked cliff paths allow you to walk as much or as little of this fabulous coast as desired. Guernsey holds two walking weeks each year (spring and autumn), with a range of walks from an hour to a whole day.

If you fancy an even slower pace of life then take a short boat trip to visit the unspoilt, car-free and care-free islands of Herm and Sark. Spend a day on each and step back in time. Herm - a mile and a half long and half a mile wide - is 20 minutes by boat from Guernsey. Close to the sleepy harbour a small cluster of cottages, restaurants, a hotel and tavern mean you can stop for a drink or a bite of lunch before heading off on foot to explore. Herm’s scenic cliff paths can be walked at a leisurely pace in a couple of hours. A highlight is Shell Beach, with its crystal clear waters and brilliant white sand formed from millions of tiny shell fragments washed ashore by the Gulfstream, you’ll think you’re in the Caribbean.

It’s just 45 minutes by boat to Sark, three miles long and one and a half miles wide. Sark is no longer a feudal state but now Europe’s newest democracy. Horse drawn carriages offer tours of the island and bicycles, available for hire are a great way to explore the island’s paths and tracks. Sark’s natural beauty astonishes with sheer cliffs drops and a diverse range of flora much of it seen in formal gardens at the historic manor house La Seigneurie. Don’t leave Sark without taking a look at La Coupée, a razor-edged isthmus linking Sark to Little Sark, a spectacular sight.

So, in just over an hour visitors are enjoying a short break or longer stay. Guernsey is close to home but offers enjoyable holiday experiences which are distinctly different.